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Home How to choose needles for permanent makeup

How to choose needles for permanent makeup

A Guide to PMU Zones, Techniques and Cartridges

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Anna's Kutsevolova Presentation

Please turn on English subtitles

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Characteristics of permanent makeup needles

The variety of tattoo needles and permanent makeup needles is worth a whole scientific research.

Without going into deep technical details, we will analyze the main characteristics of PMU needles using BROVI cartridges as the example.

These are the main application parameters that every PMU artist needs in their work:

Cross Section of the Needle

  • Round Liner (RL) or a round needle is the most popular and versatile needle type for treatment of skin on eyebrows, lips and eyelids.
  • Their configurations include single needles and bundles of several needles. Single needles are best suited for hair stroke techniques, eyeliners and fine contouring. Single needles offer a very light and at the same time deep skin penetration. Soldered needles speed up the process and allow you to cover a large area with pigment in less time.
  • All the needles featured in BROVI line of cartridges, are Round Liner.

Taper

  • Medium Taper (MT, Medium) and Long Taper (LT, Long) are two of the most sought after taper types in the industry.
  • Medium taper (MT) needles are not as traumatic as long taper needles and are suitable even for beginners. Medium taper needles are featured in every cartridge set by BROVI: for eyebrows, lips and eyelids.
  • Long taper (LT) needles are the sharpest and penetrate deeper into the skin, this ensuring higher pigment retention. They require a fairly high skill level from the user and are not recommended for beginners. But the experienced PMU artists will benefit from Long Taper needles, which will allow them to create the finest lines and contours.

Hardness

Not all manufacturers indicate this parameter and not all guides mention it.

But we focus on it in production of our cartridges.

  • All of our eyebrow tattoo needles are Hard (H). This makes it easier to pierce the thick skin around the eyebrow and more efficient in pigment implantation.
  • Soft (S) needles in our line are represented by two models: for lips and for eyeliners. We offer these needles as a solution to help avoid injury in these areas, which typically feature thin and delicate skin.
  • There are also medium hardness needles, which are not marked in any way. If you see needle cartridges without (S) or (H) labeling, it means you are looking at medium hardness needles.

Diameter

  • You can find needles on sale with a diameter of 0.15 to 0.45 mm
  • The most optimal and versatile option is a diameter of 0.30 mm. It is this diameter that we offer in our sets designed for every zone (eyebrows, lips, eyes) and every technique.
  • Finer needles of 0.25 mm are used for treatment of dry and thin skin. And a diameter of 0.35 mm is recommended if there are difficulties with thick and porous skin of the eyebrows.
  • Even smaller and larger diameters are rather exotic and are used in very specific cases.

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One set of needles for all areas

The needle cartridge set by BROVI is the first set of needles designed for all three principal areas of permanent makeup: eyebrows, lips and eyes.

As we have already said, the impossibility of acquiring a universal set of needles from one manufacturer for our own permanent makeup studio made us think about creating our own cartridges.

So we made 9 types of cartridges, and in this article we are helping you pick the right ones for your needs:

  • Eyebrow area: 01-RLMT-H from 0.25 to 0.35 mm for shading techniques and 01-RLLT-H from 0.25 to 0.35 mm for linear techniques (hair strokes)
  • Lip area: cartridge 01-RLMT-S 0.30 mm for dense coloring
  • Eye area: cartridge 01-RLMT 0.30 mm for the lashline and 01-RLLT-S 0.30 mm for classical eyeliners and eyeliners with shading
PMU Area: Eyebrows

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Needles for shading (powdering) techniques

This technique is best implemented via medium taper (MT) needles, since larger pixels allow you to fill the surface quicker.

The needle of a high degree of hardness (H - Hard) for better piercing of the skin in the eyebrow area and effective implantation of pigments.

Needle configuration 01-RLMT-H
RL — Round Liner round needle section
MT — Medium taper
H — Hard hard needle
For Skin Types
Thin and dry skin 0.25 mm
25-01-RLMT-H
Normal skin 0.30 mm
30-01-RLMT-H
Oily and porous skin 0.35 mm
35-01-RLMT-H
PMU Area: Eyebrows

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Needles for linear techniques (hair strokes)

Long-taper (LT) needles are used for the hair stroke technique, as small pixels allow you to create thin and graceful lines that mimic the natural anatomy of the hair.

The needle of a high degree of hardness (H - Hard) for better piercing of the skin in the eyebrow area and effective implantation of pigments.

Needle configuration 01-RLLT-H
RL — Round Liner round needle section
LT — Long taper
H — Hard hard needle
For Hair Types
Long and thin hairs 0.25 mm
25-01-RLLT-H
Medium hairs 0.30 mm
30-01-RLLT-H
Hard and thick hairs 0.35 mm
35-01-RLLT-H
PMU Area Eyebrows

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Needles for dense coloring techniques

This technique is best implemented via medium taper (MT) needles, since larger pixels allow you to fill the surface quicker.

The needle in the cartridge has a lower degree of hardness (S — Soft) for a safer puncture of the skin in the lip area and uniform implantation of pigments.

Needle configuration 01-RLMT-S
RL — Round Liner round needle section
MT — Medium taper
S — Soft soft needle
One needle
All types of lips0.30 mm
30-01-RLMT-S
PMU Area Eyes

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Needles for filling the space between the eyelashes

Treatment of the lash line area involves medium-taper (MT) needles with a diameter of 0.30 mm, as they allow you to fill the eyelash growth area quickly and minimize swelling.

The cartridge contains a medium-hardness needle (medium/regular hardness is not marked).

High and low-hardness needles are not suitable for filling the space between the eyelashes: the H-type needle makes it easy go too deep and damage blood vessels, and the S-type needle does not provide the desired shading results.

Needle configuration 01-RLMT
RL — Round Liner round needle section
MT — Medium taper
One needle
All types of skin0.30 mm
30-01-RLMT
PMU Area Eyes

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Needles for eyeliners and shading

Long taper (LT) needles with a diameter of 0.30 mm are used to create a classic eyeliner / eyeliner with shading / shaded eyeliner. This configuration allows you to achieve a more transparent and delicate shade on the eyelids.

The cartridge has a low-hardness needle, so it is recommended to use two cartridges to create an eyeliner:

01-RLMT 0.30 for safe shading of the lash line

01-RLLT-S 0.30 for creating an eyeliner or an eyeliner with shading / shaded eyeliner

Needle configuration 01-RLLT-S
RL — Round Liner round needle section
LT — Long taper
S — Soft soft needle
One needle
All types of skin 0.30 mm
30-01-RLLT-S